It's possible to reach up and clip the gauges lights in (barely) when the cluster is in place. I can say with assurance the column and steering wheel can remain in place (although it really helps to be able to swing it out of the way when needed). Got the two pieces (speedo and gauge cluster) back in with little drama by making 2" extensions for the wires, a male and female spade clip on each end. A/C and/or safety-convenience optioned cars just have too much extra equipment in the way. I've also found out that cars without A/C and saftey-convenience options have just barely enough room to reach in with extensions and change out a CVR without removing any of the main pods. At the very least, remove the steering wheel. The advice above to drop the steering column is correct. Patience and persistence is your best friend, along with an Osborne electrical manual for your model year. JMO, but my best approach has been to bolt in the speedo first, and cluster second. I've done this a half dozen times all 64-66 years are the same. Ford had no need to make it easy for us 50 years later. Nobody would have done this work themselves originally. This car was designed to be serviced by Ford technicians it was a luxury car. Yes, it's a major pain to manipulate as the wires are so short. Cutting and splicing would be a lot of work, and the original wires are all loomed if I was splicing, I would replace those looms as well. This car's wires are all wrapped into the main harness and some are wire-welded. Do your parking lights work? That is the red yellow-stripe wire.ĭiagram of the thirteen (heater console bulbs and Lights and Wiper indicator bulbs are not shown) bulbs that run off of the dimmer circuit and the parking lights on the other side of the switch on the red yellow-stripe wire.While it would have been a sensible idea to connect the speedo and cluster lights, CVR, and instrument wires via a main plug, that plug didn't appear for several more years. However, the easiest bulbs to check are the two in the clock or the shift selector bulb under the panel on the top of the steering column.Īlso, in the diagram labled "R" on the switch (second diagram below) is that the parking lights are connected to the other side of the switch but before the rheostat. Since each bulb is independently grounded, I doubt there is a ground problem and it is unlikely that all 13 bulbs are burned out. If there is no voltage there, then you have a break in the wire somewhere or the connector is corroded or loose. I don't know how hard it is to get to the headlight switch, as I have never done it, but if you can, get to the connector and measure for 12V at the yellow red-stripe wire on the connector. As you can see, the yellow red-stripe wire is what you are interested in. The block in red is the always on strip (brass strip on the back of the fuse box) that provides 12V to the three items above. However, if you say the dome lights are working, then it is not the fuse. With a voltmeter, check each end of the fuse to ground. That fuse, along with Cigar and Clock, have 12V on them all the time. The dimmer is fused by the Dome/Park/Rear 15A fuse in the fuse box that is on the right end.
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